Spring/Summer 2018 marked a refreshing turn for Haider Ackermann, building on the strong foundation of Fall/Winter 2017. This season, Ackermann opted for a more subdued approach, dialing back the intensity while staying true to his signature glamorous spirit. The collection introduced beautifully executed new patterns and silk garments, capturing a refined elegance that felt both fresh and familiar.
Unlike the bold statements of previous seasons, this collection spoke in softer tones, allowing the intricate details and luxurious textures to take center stage. Ackermann’s skillful use of silk, combined with innovative jacquard patterns, showcased his ability to reinvent opulence in a way that felt approachable and effortless. Each piece was crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail, yet the overall vibe was more restrained, letting the garments speak for themselves.
Notably, Spring/Summer 2018 was also the first collection in which Ackermann began reissuing some of the brand’s iconic pieces. Among these was the legendary pair of biker joggers famously worn by Kanye West in 2015, a design that had quickly achieved cult status. By reintroducing these classic pieces, Ackermann bridged past and present, giving longtime fans and new followers alike a chance to experience the timeless appeal of his earlier work.
Fall/Winter 2017 is often considered one of Haider Ackermann's most underrated collections. Featuring burned velvet and wool jackets and vests paired with matching trousers, these pieces have become highly sought-after items among collectors. The collection was the most expensive Haider menswear collection in terms of retail price, due to the super expesive craftmanship of the pieces mixing hand stitched velvet patches with leather or wool.
Haider drew heavily on the spirit of the British punk movement, showcasing dark tartans and sharp houndstooth patterns that ran through each piece. This nod to punk was a fresh direction for Ackermann, whose designs typically lean toward refined luxury. While the collection initially appeared more street-inspired and less overtly opulent than some of his past work, handling the garments revealed Ackermann’s signature quality and attention to detail. Each piece maintained the sophisticated craftsmanship for which he is known, with the rich textures of the velvet and wool adding a sense of depth and decadence. From perfectly tailored blazers to edgy, fitted trousers, Ackermann struck a balance between rebellion and luxury, capturing the essence of punk with a refined edge.
The Fall/Winter 2017 collection demonstrated Haider’s ability to blend street-inspired elements with high-end fashion, creating pieces that were both wearable and exquisitely crafted. This season stands as a testament to Ackermann’s versatility and vision, celebrated among fans and collectors who appreciate the subtle nuances that make his work timeless.
