In his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, Haider Ackermann captivated with a series of luminous looks crafted from a dreamy palette, opulent fabrics, and elegantly relaxed silhouettes, all showcased in a Parisian residence gathering.
The collection marked the beginning of a new, glamorous spirit that Haider later continued with some of his most lavish and extravagant creations. For his creative influence, the Colombian designer drew on rock and roll. His main inspiration for the collection was Keith Richards, whose energy had long fascinated him. Figures like Richards and Iggy Pop, Ackermann explained, radiated a freedom that feels elusive today.
Before designing the collection, Ackermann attended his first Stones concert. "They’re not my generation, but their energy was beyond fantastic," he said. "Keith took my scarf and wrapped it around his waist. There was just a natural decadence." The silhouettes flowed with wild elegance: long scarves, varsity silk jackets, crumpled trousers, and gilets in shades of purple, olive, aubergine, and other rich tones. For his portrayal of the rock star as a bohemian, Haider received more than just words of praise.
Fall/Winter 2017 is often considered one of Haider Ackermann's most underrated collections. Featuring burned velvet and wool jackets and vests paired with matching trousers, these pieces have become highly sought-after items among collectors. The collection was the most expensive Haider menswear collection in terms of retail price, due to the super expesive craftmanship of the pieces mixing hand stitched velvet patches with leather or wool.
Haider drew heavily on the spirit of the British punk movement, showcasing dark tartans and sharp houndstooth patterns that ran through each piece. This nod to punk was a fresh direction for Ackermann, whose designs typically lean toward refined luxury. While the collection initially appeared more street-inspired and less overtly opulent than some of his past work, handling the garments revealed Ackermann’s signature quality and attention to detail. Each piece maintained the sophisticated craftsmanship for which he is known, with the rich textures of the velvet and wool adding a sense of depth and decadence. From perfectly tailored blazers to edgy, fitted trousers, Ackermann struck a balance between rebellion and luxury, capturing the essence of punk with a refined edge.
The Fall/Winter 2017 collection demonstrated Haider’s ability to blend street-inspired elements with high-end fashion, creating pieces that were both wearable and exquisitely crafted. This season stands as a testament to Ackermann’s versatility and vision, celebrated among fans and collectors who appreciate the subtle nuances that make his work timeless.
